7 Tips For Surviving Fishing Seasons

7 Tips For Surviving Fishing Seasons

It seems to be that every time I set out on a fishing trip, it seems to start breaking the bank.  If I’m lucky, I’ll make a little money to supplement the expense and buy a new rod, or a pair of new big game boots.  But that isn’t nearly as fun as just hanging out down the river, talking shop, and telling stories.  You know, just like old friends do.  It seems to come to a point where fishing takes over your life, and it’s hard to remember what it was like to barefoot.  It’s become a sport, and not only the main activity in your life, but something you want to do on a regular basis.  It’s become a bit of a chore, where preparation for the upcoming season becomes more important than the actual fishing.

I’m not saying that you should give up your fishing, but I am saying that your preparation for the upcoming fishing season, that is.  The last fishing season, you should be getting ready for winter. Even if it’s warm when you go, if you’re wearing waders, a pair of neoprene booties, and breathable waders, you’re running a serious risk of hypothermia.  Hypothermia is the leading cause of death in Colorado according to the National Weather Service.  That’s one death every forty hours of fishing trip; how sad!

Thanks to the internet we have world-wide access to information.  If you’re like me, you spend a lot of time online, reading articles from coast to coast about fishing and life in general, none of which help you as much as having a private forum or blog discussing fishing gear and techniques with other fishermen.  As a fisherman, you deserve a safe, productive place to hang out and talk fishing anytime of the year.  If you’ve already started a private fishing forum, web log, or blog, you’re also reading these few essential tips:

Check your gear

Check your gear.  You can’t remember if you packed a pair of neoprenes and a pair of breathable waders, or if it was summer and you just brought a pair of waders, and they were just a spare pair.

Fly Line

Fly Line.  A good fly line is a must.  You can’t fish with a bad line.  Be sure that your fly line is based on the weight of the fly that you’re fishing, and not the number of flies you choose to use.  If you’re catching lots of fish on a particular fly, choose a line that won’t snag as many fish.

If you’re still new to fishing, find a friend to teach you the basics.

If you’re still new to fishing, find a friend to teach you the basics.  You can learn a lot from someone who is experienced, as well as from a more seasoned veteran.

While you’re waiting for your fishing day to come, you might want to make a few camp-outs

While you’re waiting for your fishing day to come, you might want to make a few camp-outs.  Turn on a few of the old campfires in the woods nearby, and spend some time remembering what it was like to sleep out under the stars.  Sounds like a good time.  What do you suppose is cooler?  Less importantly, you’ll be able to tell stories around the campfire and reminisce about when you were a kid (or even more).

Take a few shots along the way to show your friends what you’re really capable of

Take a few shots along the way to show your friends what you’re really capable of.  Don’t worry about the quality of the pictures, because you’ll have to share them with the whole world at some point.  We’re not meanie-sayers, and we like nice people.  Once you get the hang of the camera, however, and decide to upload some of those pictures onto your private forum or web site, you will definitely gain some ground on bragging rights.

Keep your personal gear in good condition

Keep your personal gear in good condition.  If you’re using a bear bag cannot be opened, and a cord that’s wrapped around your sleeping bag has fallen out, chances are that your “secret” spoil of a wonderland ride will haunt you and will only further guarantee that your fishing buddies will spend the entire night in your treed cornfield.

Children

Children:  Today, there is a great many adults who take their young kids fishing with them, and ask them if they’d like to go along.  Up until a point in their early fishing years, your kids probably don’t want to get on the water, and if they do, they probably don’t want to rap a wicket hat for a bait basket full of my juvenilefreshwater fishing license, but getting them started early will probably be an advantage for you down the road.

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Messi: The Ball Winning Manager

Messi: The Ball Winning Manager

Football Manager Profile of Rafael Benitez is itself a topic for a whole book. appreciation of what he has achieved with his team, the record he has for the most number of clean sheets, as well as his inspiration to his players are all there for anyone to judge, and in this case justifiably. It is however his footballing philosophy and the way in which he sets out to generations of footballing generations that come after him, that is the real all important difference between a great manager and a popularity cult. Off the pitch flamboyance is almost non-existent, off the pitch when put in his position he only seems interested in doing things right. His performances on and off the pitch in his new job are every bit as good as a legend, and a case could be made for him MUST be placed in the first class all-time XI.

Rafa’s emphasis is more on education, with a Theo Walcott of youth development, at the head. His record of arriving early to watch his promising youngsters train, developing them, touching them and providing an environment for young potential holders to dream points of order; a real rarity in English football. It is not an over-due status, what many critics would tend to consider the transfer situation has made it difficult for top flight clubs to turn their backs on some of the best talent, but the overall lack of first team action, this season (standers included) has hurt a great deal.

Why the Revolution?

Rafa is enrolling youngsters not just to learn how to play football, but without them knowing the first thing about the sport, it’s a negative spiral that seems to be getting worse. One reason being that the obvious way of developing new players is to start giving them various skill and fitness drills which they can immediately pick up and master. This is what happened with England under Steve Mclaren, with a world cup prospect, David Beckham, learning the rudiments of the game.

Rafa Benitez tends to buy players who have a future generations potential in mind, whether it be playing for his country, or chasing a famous England job, and he doesn’t come across with this media attitude very often. Although I must say that I often find it hard to disagree with him, especially in the high pressure football press world he operates in.

How is he different from most other managers?

He seems to speak to the media in the language they should be speaking to themselves. He seems genuine and is not buying into the hype and media speculation that seems to accompany the role of manager, especially of a club the size of Liverpool. In recent times I think he has more freedom to make his opinions heard with less fear of repercussions from the board. Many current Anfield players probably would not have been brought in if the manager had imposed his will upon them, or at the very least bothered denying them an England place.

It seems that everyone is to the point where they depend on him, Liverpool is as competitive a club as you could get. It has often been said that he picks and moulds his squad as much as any other manager, and I can see this being the case. He makes decisions months in advance without any interference from others, this can not be said about any other manager. He makes his decisions without using the services of a chief scout, someone he has full control over. He makes luxury decisions, and sometimes this rubs people up the wrong way.

He is not a pushover

Those that are critical of Rafa tend to fall into these categories: people who dislike sacklings, people who are afraid to confront bad situations, and people who want to see their club as a monopoly.

But it is just this kind of casual attitude that has made Rafa a great manager. After years and years of his faith being tested to varying degrees, he has come to the conclusion that at the end of the day, he has performed at his best if the team wins.

What is he saying about the game?

He has said many things that can be taken as the truth, and whatever you want to take from this performance we will leave to your opinions.

Whatever you take from what he has said is your opinion, not mine!

 

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why is longboard so expensive

Why is longboard so expensive

Longboarding is a sport that is hard on the wallet. For example, a new Landyachtz complete can run you up anywhere from $200 to $300. Yeah, it’s expensive. And the worse part? These completes have parts that will wear and break. A good freeride based longboarder can wreak a new set of wheels in a week. There goes $50. And your bearings? Gotta replace em. Don’t want your roll speed to slow down. There’s $15. That is $65 replacements and we haven’t even mentioned trucks, decks, bushings, or other accessories. But fortunately there are some cheaper alternatives to the parts we desire. This is what I will be covering today.

Longboard decks

Longboard decks don’t come cheap. But thankfully, not every deck will cost you a week’s pay. Over at Churchill MFG, they are doing it right. Their decks are only $60, and are a great quality. I personally own one and love it. They make amazing freeride decks and the only downside (in my opinion) is their weight, although this also lends itself to better durability. This a fantastic deck for a good price and just about the only great deck for less than $75.

Wheels for your longboard will wear down. It is inevitable. Therefore, a lot of people can’t afford to buy an expensive set every couple of weeks. For freeride based riding, there is only one set of wheels that really sticks out to be a great, cheap alternative. Sector 9 Butterballs. Butterballs come in 65mm or 70mm, and are always in 80a. They advertise that their wheels are made with “Slide Formula” and I don’t know if that means anything, but boy do these babies slide. Butterballs on a hot day will leave thane on the road that looks like sidewalk chalk. They go into slides smooth and buttery; hence the “Butterballs”. They cost a mere $35 and compete with the best of em’. If you are looking for a cheap set of freeride wheels, look no further. Go get a set of Butterballs. Seriously.

 

Trucks

Trucks. Those things that hold your board to your wheels. For $20, a set of Churchill’s RKP trucks work well for what they are. They are a simple truck that allow your wheels to be in the spotlight without getting in your way. I love these trucks if I need a cheap fix for a homemade board. Get some for cheap. For TKP trucks, I like Indy’s. I bought a pair of Independent 159’s for $40, a darn good price for a pair of really great truck. Independent makes cast trucks that will last for years no matter how you abuse them, and I believe they have a lifetime warranty. For TKP trucks, I almost always purchase Independent’s and haven’t looked back.

Now the accessories for longboarding. Bushing-wise, most are cheap. Invest $6 in a pair of Riptides or Venoms. They are fantastic bushings. Bearings I tend to get China Reds from Churchill which are very cheap and easy to replace. They do their job and don’t empty your wallet. For hardware, I go to my local hardware store. Really, I do. Do not, I repeat DO NOT buy “longboarding-specific hardware”. That’s a bunch of bologna. There is literally no difference between their hardware and some basic steel screws and nuts from a hardware store. Look up the measurements and purchase your hardware where it should be bought; a hardware store. For helmets and pads, I go to Triple Eight. A helmet costs you $30-$40 and is certified, and the pads cost even less. I have never had mine break and it does it’s job, it keeps you safe.

Longboarding can be an expensive hobby. Use these tips I have shown you and keep some money in your wallet!

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Cheap Longboards – Why Pay More

Cheap Longboards – Why Pay More?

How much is a longboard?

The cheapest complete longboards in our shop start at under £50 – but if you called us with the challenge of building you the most expensive custom possible, you could end up spending upwards of £400.

Why the huge difference?

A question we are often asked is: “How can you possibly spend that much on a longboard when £50 will do the job?

We’ve taken three different price points of drop-through boards off the shelf to try to explain where your money goes.

The three longboards we selected are also all basically aimed at the same user – they’re cruising/pumping/pushing/commuting setups. They’re all drop-through, they all have some flex, and dimensions (length/wheelbase/nose/tail) are all roughly similar.

They’re all roughly the same symmetrical shape, and have proper longboard or “reverse kingpin” trucks.

They all feature large wheel cutouts to prevent wheelbite, and they all roll on large, soft wheels to keep things fast and smooth over rough surfaces.

All of these boards are stock setups – that is to say, they are readily available from our shop any time. We could have included a crazy expensive carbon fibre one-off race board with precision trucks but that isn’t really a fair comparison!

So why the price difference?

How different can they really be?

Read on for an in depth look…

 

Longboard #1 – The Cheap Option (£55.00)

First up is the Neptune Drop-Through by Atlantic. They are currently available from us at £54.94 – making is the cheapest drop-through that we sell in our shop.

The board itself is pressed from a cheap maple substitute. There is flex there, but it’s not the springiest thing we’ve stood on.

The sloping shoulders do prevent wheelbite, but they do reduce the standing platform quite significantly, giving you less room for your feet.

The wheels are Atlantic’s own brand. While they do the job that a wheel should do, ie allowing the board to roll along the ground, they don’t go much further than that.

Grip is fairly minimal and roll speed is slow – this is mostly down to the lower quality urethane used.

Frankly speaking, this is a stock wheel out of China, with no real feedback into the shape, core position, or urethane formula. They roll along the ground – but that’s about it.

Turning to the trucks, it’s much the same story. Yes – they’re trucks. Yes –  they turn. But not very much. Given that the trucks you ride on are probably the most important part of your board, this is really the thing that lets this board down the most. The bushings are low rebound, the metal casting is of a low quality, there’s noticable slop in the truck hanger, and we suspect that if we put these trucks through their paces, they would bend fairly quickly.

Although we believe strongly that the bearings are not as vital to your board as you might think, the bearings on the Atlantic are really the bare minimum available. They do spin, but the all-important shields are very poor metal jobs – exactly the kind that let the water in after a skate in damp conditions. With a bit of a clean you might be able to make them perform decently enough, but you’ll need to look after them.

In short, the cheap option is just that – cheap. Yes, you can skate it. But in our opinion, it’s not really giving you the best longboarding experience.

In fact, we’d go so far as to say that it gets you rolling, and very little more.

 

Longboard #2 – middle of the road (£145.00)

Here is where things get interesting.

The second board we;ve picked is the Lush Freebyrd “Pro” Setup. This board is actually available as cheaper “Standard” (and more expensive “Elite”) builds, but the Pro option is a good value mid-priced longboard which suits our needs nicely.

The Freebyrd is pressed with a simple cambered profile, which immediately gives the board a way nicer flex than the Atlantic, which is flat in profile.

Lush are also using superior Canadian Maple to do this, which makes all the difference – you can immediately feel that the deck has a bit more spring in it.

The shape is refined too – this board has actually been designed as opposed to pulled out of a catalogue, with the aim of maximising the standing platform whilst avoiding wheelbite. This isn’t something that you can do just by drawing a shape and sending it to a factory – Lush have clearly put this shape through some skate time to get this shape.

The most obvious difference is the wheels, trucks and bearings. Spend this much and you’re getting some pretty decent aftermarket gear on your board.

Cult Wheels are well known and loved all over the world – the Classic 66mm that comes with the Freebyrd is poured from a decent urethane, so it rolls well with grip when you need it, and controllable sliding when you don’t.

Sabre Trucks are again a quality aftermarket brand, with precisely cast pivots, quality aluminium casting, and high rebound bushings. They have very little slop compared to the janky no-name trucks that come on the Atlantic, and they turn way smoother.

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again – trucks are the most important part of your longboard. This is the Freebyrd’s trump card, and it’s the primary reason to spend this much money.

The Freebyrd is finished off with Sabre ABEC7 berarings, which are well shielded and fast rolling – and that’s all you really need from a bearing at any price in our opinion.

So for an extra £90, you’ve suddenly gone from a longboard that you’ll probably skate a few times and get bored with, to a longboard setup that will last, roll faster and smoother for longer, and give you a turning sensation that’s getting close to about as good as it gets.

There’s no question in our minds – you’ll have more fun on your board if you spend a bit more.

 

Longboard #3: all the bells and whistles

It’s a bit strange comparing a £310 complete to a similar product that costs less than a fifth of the price.

However, put the Loaded Icarus up against the Atlantic, and you can immediatey see where the money goes.

While the cheap option gets you something barely sufficient, the Loaded Icarus is a fully designed, quality piece of kit that will make you want to skate more.

The deck is pressed from Bamboo and Fibreglass, giving a crazy awesome pumpy/springy feeling that’s just not there in the cheaper decks.

Loaded have put a lot of thought into the shape of this deck – the concave and 3D wheel arches give huge clearance, and the deck just feels “right” under your feet.

Like the Sabres on the Lush Freebyrd, aftermarket Paris V2 trucks are strong, smooth and turn really well with minimal “slop.”

We build the Icarus up with high-end Cult Raptures – some of the grippiest, fastest, smoothest rolling wheels out there. Poured from high-quality urethane on a huge air core, the difference to roll speed and grip over the cheaper wheels is something else.

Make no mistake – spend this much and you’re getting your money’s worth.

 

And the winner is…

This depends on your expectations and your budget – the reason we stock such a wide range of longboards is because we know that there is no right answer for everyone.

If you just want to get rolling and spend as little money as possible, then by all means get something cheap.

There is a caveat here though. You need to recognise that you will be getting something that doesn’t skate as well – which means that you won’t enjoy it as much.

Seeing as we all skate because it’s enjoyable, we feel that just going for the cheapest board you can find, kind of defeats the point.

Most skaters coming into the shop tend to end up spending between £140-£200. In this price range, you’re getting decent aftermarket undercarriage, a deck that has been thought about and built from decent enough materials, all put together to make a quality package. We reckon that this is probably the best pricepoint for most people looking to get into longboarding.

If, however, you really want the best you can get, then we have to say that it is worth spending the extra.

Expensive longboards really do ride way better than cheaper ones – the design, components and materials all come together to make a vastly superior package.

There is a caveat here too though – you must make sure that you pick the right thing for you. Just throwing money at the screen and expecting your board to be perfect isn’t enough! Take your time to figure out what kind of longboard you need, and do your research first.

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Longboard vs Skateboard – Similarities and Differences

Longboard vs Skateboard – Similarities and Differences

As you probably know the choice between a longboard or skateboard depends on what you want to do. If you don’t I’ll make sure you do by the end of this post. Even if you already leaning towards one or another there are still a lot of differences when you look at the parts and types of boards. There is so much to learn in order to make the right choice and I’ll make sure to cover everything to get you the answer you are looking for.

Let’s start with the conclusion. Should you get a longboard or a skateboard? Go for a longboard if you want to cruise around for an extended period and plan to ride long distances. Longboards are great for easy cruising and provide a smooth riding experience. Go for a skateboard if you want to do technical tricks on the street and in parks and don’t plan on just commuting.

You can have both but sacrifices need to be made. There are boards that allow you to cruise and do tricks but won’t excel at either of the two disciplines. Let’s dive into what exactly you can do with a longboard or skateboard, the main differences, styles and what to pick.

Differences Between a Longboard and a Skateboard

longboard vs skateboard

Longboards are wider and longer than skateboards, are more flexible and easier to ride for beginners. Longboards have large soft wheels and skateboard have small hard wheels.

Big soft wheels are great for riding but are more bouncy compared to hard wheels. This means if you do an ollie (jump) for example, the board is more likely to bounce back up. This makes landing a trick unstable and more chances of landing primo (both feet on the side of the deck).

Skateboards have smaller trucks, longboards have wider trucks and have a different design. Wider trucks provide more stability which you need at higher speeds. Smaller trucks make a board more agile which is needed for ollies and flips.

Both a skateboard and longboard are capable of tricks, but tricks for longboards are limited. Skateboards are great for technical tricks that require jumps, flips, grinds, etc. Longboards are great for long distances but also allow you to do rudimentary tricks like power slides, carving, and pumping.

Ability Longboard Skateboard
Riding Long-distance Short distance
Wheels Big soft wheels between 60 and 70mm Small hard wheels between 52 and 58mm
Trucks Wide and more stable Shorter and more agile
Learning curve Gentle Steep
Initial costs Expensive Cheaper
Replacing parts Infrequent Frequent
Safety Fewer injuries More injuries
Tricks Limited Not even the sky is the limit
Durability High Moderate
Effort to ride Less More
Popularity (sales) Less More
Shape Various Popsicle
Styles Cruising, Dancing, freeriding, downhill Street, vert, mini ramp, bowl
Popularity Less popular but growing 50% of the market, steady
Weight Bulky and heavy Lightweight and portable
Speed Fast Slower

The Difference in Deck Shapes

different shapes skateboard and longboard

Let’s start with the differences in the deck or board shapes. Popsicles curve up at the end, the always have concave (low, mid, high), are around 32″ long and widths vary from 6.5″ (kids) to 10″. Wider boards provide more stability and are often used for transition skateboarding (skate parks) and narrow boards are better for technical street skating.

There are some minor differences depending on the brand. Baker, for example, distinguishes themselves by a less curvy tail and some boards have bigger, smaller, wider or higher noses and tails.

As for concave, all skateboards have concave which allows for more control of your board when performing tricks.

Longboards vary a lot in shape and styles, and each shape is designed for its own purpose. Let’s break it down:

  • Pintail: These longboards are wider in the center and have a sharp nose and tail. Pintails are directional boards, meaning they can ride in one direction only.
  • Fishtail: Wider in the center and feature a split tail. Great for the classic surf style and great for carving.
  • Blunt: These boards have a wider rather rounded nose and tails and are great for beginners. They are very stable boards but less optimal for carving.
  • Cruiser: Cruisers are smaller boards and are darty, quicker and maybe less smooth for the absolute beginner. Can perform tricks because of the steeper concave and elevated tail and nose.
  • Twin Cut out: Great for freeride and can ride in both directions (bi-directional). Very stable boards and suitable for beginners.
  • Cut out: Bi-direction boards and better stability at high speeds. Great for freestyle, downhill, and freeride.
  • Dropdown: These boards have a lower deck compared to the nose and tail. Great for beginners as they offer more stability. Comfortable rides, great for long-distance cruising.
  • Speed: Come in different sizes and shapes but provide optimal stability at higher speeds

Wheels Differences

longboard and skateboard wheels compared

There are many differences between longboard and skateboard wheels and it’s not just the size, hardness and color. I’ll stick to the basics and keep it short mentioning only the most relevant differences.

Skateboards require smaller and harder wheels. It’s easier to land tricks on harder and softer wheels as they don’t bounce as much. The choices are endless but in general, you need wheels between 52 and 58mm depending on your style. Street skaters need smaller wheels, transition skaters benefit from larger wheels.

The hardness should be between 85A and 84B (104A). Hard wheels aren’t very comfortable riding long distances but that’s not their purpose

Longboard wheels should be big and soft, a good size is between 63mm and 80mm depending on your style. Softness depends on where you skate and your personal preference but anything between 75A and 85A is recommended for beginners.

Softer wheels are more grippy and longboard wheels often have a larger contact patch compared to skateboards. They don’t accelerate as fast as small and hard wheels but provide more stable speeds and balance.

Trucks

Conventional skateboards are all a bit the same, though they vary in height and responsiveness depending on the brand. Longboards fitting vary a lot depending on what style you prefer. One of the biggest differences is how trucks are attached to the deck. Depending on the mounting type, deck shapes also vary.

  • Top-Mount trucks: The trucks are attached to the bottom of a longboard deck, this provides more leverage and control because the trucks sit right below your feet. This is the most common type.
  • Drop-thru trucks: This style is great for beginners as it provides a lot of stability but makes a board less responsive. The trucks are attached by cut-outs in the nose and tail which allows you to drop them through and attach them from the side.
  • Dropped Deck trucks: Trucks are top-mounted but the longboard itself is lower (or dropped) than the nose and tail. They are great for sliding because your center of gravity is much lower.
  • Flush Mount trucks: Provides a lower center of gravity but still allows for strong truck leverage. The downside is that you can only fit one type of truck.
  • Drop mount trucks: Here the trucks are attached by fitting them into the deck providing less leverage compared to a top-mount but more leverage compared to a full drop-thru.

Bushings and Shapes

different bushing for longboarding and skateboarding

Where regular skateboards always come stock with cone-barrel bushings, longboards have many, many different shapes and purposes.

Bearings

zealous longboard bearings

The good news is that you can fit longboard bearings in a skateboard and vice versa. There are a couple of differences between let’s say Zealous and Bones.downhillers probably want to look at bearings that can better deal with heat from friction. Ceramics are usually what to look for but they are expensive.

Bones Reds standard bearings

Skateboard bearings like Bones Reds accelerate much faster while Zealous bearings need a bit more time to get up to speed. Zealous bearings will keep on going where Bones will slow your board down faster.

The Purpose of a Longboard

I’ll start with longboards. Long Board…., it’s supposed to be lengthy right? Well, not always. There are so many different longboards available but they still vary in width, length, shape, and purpose. Some are good for just cruising long distances, some are great for dancing, some excel at speed and downhill, heck some are even great for technical tricks (cruisers).

Longboards are excellent for cruising around town or riding long distances. They don’t require much effort to get up to speed and once you become proficient, it really is a great and healthy activity. I love the whooshing sound they make when you carve and compared to my regular skateboard, they are really quiet.

Longboarders like different styles, make sure to know what you want to do before you purchase one.

Longboard styles:

  • Cruising
  • Dancing
  • Carving
  • Freeriding
  • Downhill
  • Slalom

Longboard Pros

Longboards are great for cruising using minimum effort. It’s easy to balance on a longboard and you won’t be bothered by rocks and other small objects. This makes a longboard a great option for beginners.

Longboards can last for a long time compared to skateboards. They only thing you need to replace are the wheels and even they can last for a very long time depending on where, how and what you ride.

Longboard Cons

Longboards are expensive, at least when you want a quality board with decent parts.  Longboards are bulky and rather annoying to carry around and can be a hassle to travel with. You can do a lot of tricks on a longboard but it’s rather limited compared to a regular skateboard.

The Purpose of a Skateboard

If you look closely at the shape of a popsicle skateboard you see that the nose and tail curve upward and that the deck surface curves inwards (concave). A skateboard is built for tricks and the shape helps to make that happen.

Sure you can just ride and cruise a bit but that would requirer softer and bigger wheels. Skateboards are meant to perform technical tricks like kickflips, ollie, and grinds. They excel at skate parks and street but require more effort to push around.

The deck trucks and wheels are designed to withstand impacts and are way more agile than longboards. It’s a completely different sport (or art as some say) and hard to compare to longboarding. If you know how to ride a skateboard you won’t have any issues riding a longboard.

Skateboard styles:

  • Technical street skating
  • Green
  • Bowl
  • Mini ramp

Skateboard Pros

Skateboards are easy to carry around and you can strap them on a backpack and some airlines even allow them as a carry-on. Landing tricks can be very satisfying and it’s a great way to make new friends.

They are very agile, build for impacts and it will change how you view the world (stairs, rails, curbs). Skateboards are cheaper than longboards and are more popular (though longboarding is the faster-growing sport).

There are many parks and facilities for skateboarders and after years of decline, skateboarding popularity is rising again.

Skateboard Cons

Skateboarding requires a lot of dedication and commitment. If you skip the basic steps you might injure yourself. Skateboard might seem cheaper, but when you ride often and do lots of technical tricks it can become more expensive. Shoes, decks, and wheels need to be replaced regularly depending on where you skate.

Transition skateboarding (ramps, parks, etc) is usually less demanding when you look at equipment wear and tear, and your body.

Skateboards aren’t great at riding longer distances. the hard wheels can feel uncomfortable on rough roads and it requires a lot of pushing to maintain speed. Carving is almost impossible.

What They Have in Common

Both offer tons of creative fun and share their own subcultures. Skateboarders and longboarders come from all walks of life and share a passion. It’s a great way to make friends, even though it’s a rather individualistic sport, most people love to share tips and help each other become better riders.

As far as the boards go, they both have trucks, wheels, decks, bearings and some parts that are interchangeable. You can even slap longboard wheels on a skateboard and start cruising, make sure to add riser pads though.

You often find that skateboarders and longboarders share a passion for boardsports such as snowboarding, surfing or wakeboarding. Often skaters are creative people that don’t have much interest in popular sports.

Which is Easier to Learn?

Usually, a longboard is easier for beginners, longboards are wider and longer which helps you to maintain balance. Additionally, the larger and softer wheels can handle small obstacles and rough roads much better compared to a skateboard. Longboards have no issues with large cracks and sometimes you hardly notice them.

In some cases, it’s even possible to ride over tram rails when commuting in the city, given that you approach the rails at the right angle. A skateboard is more prone to get stuck in cracks and small rocks can block the wheels if you’re unlucky. It really depends on how you position yourself on your board. Leaning forward will make it more likely to get wheel block than if you lean backward.

Make sure to wear protective gear!

Which is More Expensive?

Longboards are more expensive if you’re going for a quality board. A decent longboard costs between $150 and $250. This will give you a quality deck, great wheels, and reliable trucks.

Decent skateboards go between $90 and $150. At $90 you won’t get top quality parts but still acceptable, at 150 you really get the best components you can get. Low-quality wheels and bearings need to be replaced more often.

In general, it’s a bad idea to go for a cheap longboard or skateboard, you’ll get inferior components and it won’t be fun to ride. If your budget is tight, consider buying a used longboard or skateboard but make sure you inspect it before you buy. Check the deck for chips, delamination and water damage. If the bearings make noise there’s a good chance they need to be replaced.

There’s more to it than just the initial cost. Longboards last way longer than skateboards so let’s see why.

Which Lasts the Longest?

used Almost skateboard deck

Looking at it from a durability perspective longboards last longer. Often longboard riders just want to cruise which means only your wheels will wear, your board and trucks can last for decades given you treat your board right and maintain it well. I got a 15-year-old sector9 over here and it still has the original deck and trucks.

If you want to downhill, prepare to replace your wheels often. bearings could also suffer more because of the high RPM.

Technical skateboarders often need to replace their deck every few months and sometimes even after a couple of weeks. Decks wear because of impacts, develop razor tail and chipped noses and tails. Sometimes your unlucky and break your board in a day if you don’t land a trick on the bolts.

You also need to replace shoes very often making it a more expensive hobby than longboarding. trucks will last for a long time and wheels as well. It really depends on how frequent you skate and what style you prefer.

Which Is Safer?

In general, you could say that longboarding is safer. It really depends on the style, how often and where you ride. Bombing the hills is riskier than just cruising around. Crowded areas and traffic should be avoided because many accidents involve vehicles.

Skateboarding is a relatively safe activity, basketball, and football, for example, cause more injuries than skateboarding. Also, technical street skaters have a higher risk of getting injured compared to people just cruising on longboards. Most of the injuries aren’t serious but it’s always a good idea to wear a helmet, just to be sure.

Which Is Better?

Some will say skateboarding and others will say longboarding is better. What is better anyway? Many skateboarders also ride longboards and vice versa. What’s best for you depends on what you want to do and your personal preference.

Longboards are better for long distances and provide a more relaxing riding experience. Skateboards are better for technical tricks but require more effort to push. If you are afraid of falling or don’t think you are able to commit, a skateboard isn’t for you.

Which Came First?

It’s difficult to pinpoint exactly when skateboarding was invented. It’s likely that a few people can up with the same idea around the same time. Skateboarding came first but they looked more like cruisers than the shapes we see today.

In 1959 Roller Derby Skate Company was the first company that mass-produced skateboards. earlier  ( 30s, 40s, and 50s) ‘sidewalk surfers’ were bombing the hills using improvised boards.

Kids also used handmade crate scooters, after a while kids removed the crates and bore many resemblances to skateboards. Skateboarding and longboarding really took off when wheel technology replaced clay and steel wheels with polyurethane.

Which Is More Popular?

Skateboarding is still dominant and counts for about 50% of skateboard sales, but longboarding is growing faster. About 40%  of popsicle riders also ride a longboard. One of the reasons for this growth is college students buying longboards and cruisers for commuting around campus.

Women tend to make up a large part of the longboarding community, you’ll more often see a girl riding a longboard than a skateboard.

Which Performs Better in the Rain?

Longboards perform better under wet conditions though I would never recommend skating or longboarding in the rain.

It also depends on the wheels, Orangatang wheels, for example, perform way better on wet surfaces than Fatty Hawgs cruiser wheels. The small (and often hard) wheels and size of a regular skateboard make it more likely to slip and lose control of your board.

Longboards have more grip because of the large (softer) wheels and distribution of your weight. Skating in the rain is also bad for your wooden board and bearings. There are some bearings that can handle wet conditions but they are crazy expensive.

Furthermore, rain affects your grip tape and can cause a deck to become waterlogged. The wood absorbs the water which affects the flex of your deck. It also can cause delamination, meaning the wooden layers that are glued together come off. Both longboards and skateboards can’t handle wet conditions very well.

Which Is the Fastest

A skateboarder will have a hard time keeping up with a longboarder. It requires much more effort to get up to speed and maintain velocity on a skateboard. Skateboards accelerate faster but require a lot of pushing to keep rolling.

Popsicle skateboards become unstable at high speeds because the wheels and trucks weren’t designed for that. The trucks will start to have a mind of its own resulting in speed wobble. It’s hard to stop when this happens and only really experienced skateboarders know what to do.

Longboards require more effort when it comes to acceleration but the differences are very minor, most beginners won’t even notice probably. Once you get up to speed a longboard just keeps going with minimum effort (at least compared to a skateboard).

Longboard can go really fast, the wide tricks, large soft wheels and deck will keep your ride stable without having to worry about being thrown off. Want speed? Go for a longboard.

Making a Decision

Go for a longboard if you want to ride longer distances or don’t feel like doing lots of tricks. Think about the style you like most. Love how people dance on a longboard, make sure to get a dancer. Want to bomb the hills, get a longboard that can handle it.

Just want to cruise and carve, get a basic longboard and go from there. You could also consider getting a cruiser, I wrote a post a while ago about skateboards, longboards, and cruisers which explains the differences.

Go for a skateboard when you want to do tricks. You’ll need to get the basics down first but once you can ride around comfortably you can move on to shove its, ollies, manuals and eventually land your first kickflip.

If you want a bit of both consider building a skateboard that allows you to cruise and still do some basic tricks. It’s possible to convert an existing skateboard into a cruiser, a wider deck (8.5″+) and bigger/softer wheels are required.

Wheels between 80A and 92A with a size of at least 56mm is a good start, consider riser pads when you go above 56mm or skate with very loose trucks.

Can’t Decide? Consider a Small Cruiser

Dinghy concave and shape close up

Cruisers like the Landyachtz Dinghy allow you to do tricks and cruise comfortable around town. They are great for hopping curbs, old school tricks, carve and easy to carry around.

I recently tested this board and it was such a fun ride. I was very impressed by how it performs and learned a few things I didn’t even know about. Check out the review. Or check my complete list of best cruisers (all tested)

Conclusion

Even though this is a lengthy post, I haven’t even covered half of the differences. This should give you a good idea to do some further research about the type of skateboard or longboard is the best for your personal preferences. Check out my recommended gear section for some decent setups at a reasonable price.

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General Skate Questions

General Skate Questions

What is the difference between a Longboard and Shortboard Skateboard?

The generic answer to this question is that Longboards are generally in the 36”- 60”range. Shortboards are generally referred to as “Mini-Longboards” with a range of 24”-35”. Now that companies have increased the quaility of bushings and trucks sizes, Mini-Longboards have the feel and turning radious of a traditional Longboard.

How do I choose between a Longboard and a Shortboard?

It really depends on what you want to do with the skateboard and how well you ride it. You can ride a Mini-Longboard in all types of conditions. Most students that need to commute on a campus tend to like a skateboard that is easy manuever and carry with them when there is more than normal congestion. A Longboard will serve equally as well, however, Longboards are normally heavier and longer which makes walking with them difficult. If you are planning to bomb hills with your friends, you should consider something in the range of 38”-46”.

What kind of wheels do you recommend for somebody that does not like bumps in the road?

Try using a softer wheel like a 75a to 80a durometer wheel. You can even increase the size of your wheels in the range of 70mm-80mm to help you absorb the hit.

Why does my Longboard stop suddenly when I hit a crack on the pavement?

Try skating towards cracks in the pavement at angle. If you are moving at 5-10mph and at a good angle, you should not have a problem going right over the cracks.

Why does my skateboard not go straight?

Truck Bushings are to blame for this. Truck bushings are either rubber or plastic which are designed to absorb your turns. Therefore, it does take a little time for the bushing to bend back to their original position.

How do I maintain my skateboard?

We recommend that you not ride your skateboard through puddles, rain, or in the sand. About every six months you should have your bushings replaced. Old bushings do flatten and become stiff after time.

Can I use WD40 on my bearings?

NO. Adding lubricants to the exterior of your bearing casings will on attract more dirt to the bearing. WD40 is just a quick fix for your skateboard.

When do I know I need new bearings?

Some bearings do make noise after time. That does not necessarily mean that you should buy new bearings. Check the speed of your wheels by giving them a quick revolution. You will know if you need a new set of bearing if the wheel/s stop suddenly. The good news is that bearings are relatively inexpensive.

Why do I loose control when I go down hills?

If you are attempting to go down large hills you should be aware that you may get “speed wobbles” on your board. At higher speeds your trucks are more responsive so every slight movement you take will do much more because of this, over corrections will lead to speed wobbles, where your board oscillates back and forth out of control and eventually pitching you from the board if you can’t control it. To prevent this from happening a simple fix is to simply tighten down your back truck

What is the difference between “Reverse-Kingpin” and “Traditional” skateboard trucks?

Reverse-kingpin trucks are named so because the kingpin is on the opposite side of the axle as opposed to traditional skateboard trucks. In terms of ride, reverse-kingpin trucks tend to turn much more than traditional trucks making them better for carving and lean turning as opposed to kick-turning. However, reverse-kingpin trucks are taller than traditional skateboard trucks which raises the ride-height of the board a little bit.

Someone told me to flip my hanger what does that mean?

On reverse-kingpin trucks the hanger is flat allowing it to be removed and turned over 180 degrees. This changes two important things, first it lowers the ride height of the trucks, secondly it changes the turning characteristics of the trucks by changing how the hanger interacts with the bushings. Generally flipping the hanger will lower ride height and make the trucks less responsive. For most applications the hanger does not need to be flipped.

My trucks are squeaking whenever I turn, what is causing it and how do I fix it?

The squeaking is coming from a part of your trucks called the “pivot cup”. It’s caused by friction between the pivot bushing and the hanger. To fix it simply take the hanger off of the baseplate and take soap shavings, graphite or wax and spread it around inside of the pivot cup, use the hanger pivot to evenly spread it around. Then reassemble the truck and you’re good to go.

Will getting better bearings make me go faster?

No, but they will keep you rolling for longer. Wheels play a much larger role in speed. A larger wheel (80mm+) will have a slow acceleration, but a high top speed. Smaller wheels (51mm-66mm) will have a fast acceleration but a low top speed. Wheels in the 70mm-75mm range will have a good balance between acceleration and top speed. Also the “hardness” of the urethane plays a role too. A harder wheel will be faster in a skate park setting but slower in normal setting because it is slowed down more by cracks and rough pavement whereas a softer wheel will more easily roll over those imperfections and lose less speed.

What do you mean by “wheel hardness”?

All skateboard wheels are measured in “durometer” which is basically just a measure of the hardness of the wheel. Street skating wheels are usually very hard in the 99a-101a range. Longboarding wheels are usually in the soft 75a-80a range. Slide wheels are typically 97a+ with the exception of the EarthWing Slide A’s which are measured differently.

What effect does durometer have on my ride?

Softer wheels (75a-80a) will offer a much smoother ride and will have more grip than harder wheels. Harderwheels (95a+) will be faster in park situations but slower in normal applications. In normal applications they will not grip as much and have a much rougher ride. Wheels in the 81a-86a range will be a balance between grip and slide ability. Wheels in this range will grip better than harder wheels but are more prone to sliding out.

What kind of wheel should I buy?

The wheel you buy depends on the intended application and the board it’s going. For cruiser/commuter boards in the 35”-46” range a larger wheel in the 70-76mm range with a durometer under 80a will work best. On a mini-board (under 30”) wheels in the 60-65mm with durometers under 80a work the best. For street skating a smaller wheel in the 51-55mm range with a durometer of 99a or 101a will work best. Park/Pool skating benefits from a medium sized wheel 60-65mm in diameter and a durometer in the 90a range works best. For sliding a wheel 60-65mm with a hard durometer 97a and above will work best.

What kind of truck should I buy?

The truck you buy depends on the intended application and the board being used. Cruiser/commuter type boards work well with the reverse-kingpin style truck because of its increased maneuverability and better turning capabilities. Street, park, pool and slide skating work better with traditional skateboard trucks because of the lower height, and the tendency to kick turn instead of lean turning. Also there is less of a chance of kingpin bite with a traditional skateboard truck.

What kind of deck should I buy?

The deck you purchase depends on the type of riding you will be doing. For cruising any board with large, soft wheels will do but for the most enjoyable cruising experience a board anywhere from 38”-60” will work best. For commuting boards under 38” work best. For park/pool/sliding/street a board with double-kick tails works best. Street skating tends to favor a narrower deck in the 7” width range whereas park/pool and sliding tends to favor a wider deck in the 8”+ range.

What kind of bearings should I buy?

The type of bearings you buy isn’t as important as the wheels, trucks and deck. Any bearing within the $10-$20 price range will do. Bones Reds for example are a great bearing for the price.

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Bushing Setup Guide

Bushing Setup Guide

 

Ever stood on someone else’s board and wondered why it feels so much better than yours?

Did you even realise that just by paying attention the smallest and least expensive parts of your longboard – the bushings, washers and pivot cups – you can transform how well your longboard turns, carves and pumps?

It is very likely that if you have found this page, you will be able to transform your longboard – and your skating – with a little time and effort.

Trust us… it’s all in the trucks and bushings.

There is an art to setting up trucks. You need to know what feeling you want, and you need to understand how to achieve it.

There’s a lot to read here, so take your time – believe us, it’s worth it!

  • How do I pick the correct bushings for my board?
  • Roadside/Boardside – what’s the difference?
  • Bushing shapes
    • – Cone
    • – Barrel
    • – Kingcone
  • Hardness – Durometer
    • – Cruising and Carving
    • – Freeride – a bit faster
    • – Downhill – really fast!
  • Washers
    • – Cup Washers
    • – Flat Washers
  • Preload – how much should I tighten my trucks?
  • Should the front truck be looser than the back truck?
  • Ride height
  • How to stop truck squeak
  • How to stop trucks clicking
  • How to stop wheelbite
  • Truck Slop – what is it and how do I stop it?
  • Set up your trucks for:
    • – Maximum Turn
    • – Carving and Cruising
    • – Faster Freeride
    • – Race and Maximum Speed

How do I pick the correct bushings for my board?

Shapes, rebound levels, durometers, weight, riding style – arrrrgh!!

Picking the right bushings is a bit of a minefield. The world of bushings can get quite complicated, but persevere and you will reap the rewards!

You need to balance all the above things to get it right. Picking the right bushings will almost certainly take some trial and error.

What we are aiming to do here is reduce the “error” part by helping you understand and make better choices first time, rather than spend loads of money on bushings trying to work out what you want.

Firstly, decide what you want your board to feel like.

  • Turny?
  • Stable for speed?
  • Lots of dive?
  • Strong return to centre or “bounce back?”
  • Trying to minimise wheelbite?

Secondly, you need to understand how a bushing works. Shape and Durometer are the things to focus on.

Thirdly, you must understand how your bushings interact with your trucks and washers. WASHERS ARE REALLY IMPORTANT.

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Roadside/Boardside – what’s the difference?

Your Top or “Roadside” bushing is the one that’s nearest the road when you’re skating, and it’s the one that’s on the top of the board when it’s on its back.

The Bottom or “Boardside” bushing is the one that’s nearest the board, and it’s the one that’s on the bottom when the board is on it’s back.

If you think about it, all your weight is on the bottom/boardside bushing when you’re skating – so that’s the bushing and washer that does most of the work.

This means that getting the boardside setup is usually the thing to pay attention to first.
The roadside/top bushing acts to hold the truck together. It mostly affects how the truck behaves as it gets closer to maximum turn and lean. This is the place to look at if you aresuffering from wheelbite.

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Bushing shapes

We have three shapes of bushing in our lineup: Cone, Barrel and Kingcone.

– Cone

A Cone bushing is very turny. There’s not a lot of urethane there, so as the truck leans over, the bushing offers about the same resistance as you lean the truck over in the turn.

They are good for lighter riders, or those looking for loads of turn.

They are also very useful for preventing wheelbite – more on that later.

– Barrel

A Barrel bushing has a lot more meat on it than a Cone.

As you lean the truck over, the bushing offers more resistance. So the harder you turn, the harder it becomes to turn further, and the more your truck wants to “bounce back” or return to centre.

Barrel bushings are good for more stability, a progressive lean, and heavier skaters.

– Kingcone/Eliminator

A huge lump of urethane, our Kingcone offers a LOT more resistance as you lean the board into the turn.

The truck will have a very strong return to centre.

A kingcone is similar to any “eliminator” style bushing – it takes a lot of the extreme lean (and therefore turn) out of the truck. They are good for downhill stability, and preventing wheelbite. They work best in higher angle trucks, where you don’t need to lean as much to turn your board.

Skating a kingcone (or eliminator) can make your trucks feel a bit “squishy,” as you are rolling on so much urethane that the truck tends to wander around a bit as you lean it over. They can feel very “wallowy,” and plush compared to smaller bushings.

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Hardness – Durometer

Urethane can be poured in a range of hardnesses.

Hardness is measured in “durometer,” which is like a percentage scale – 0 is softest, 100 is hardest.

There are different “scales” of hardness – A, B, C and D scales. A is the softest, and D is the hardest.

We are most interested in the range from about 78A up to 99A for longboard bushings.

Choosing the right durometer is critical to getting your trucks right – alongside washer choice and bushing shape selection, it’s the difference between a crappy truck and the best trucks you’ve ever ridden.

The harder your bushing, the harder your truck will be to lean and turn. A hard urethane offers a lot more resistance as you crank the truck over, and this gives more stability for going fast.

The softer your bushing, the more reactive and turny your truck will be, and the less resistance the bushing has as you crank it over.

You need to juggle your weight, prefernce and riding style when picking bushing durometer.

Lower truck angles sometimes need a slightly harder bushing to prevent wheelbite, as you have more leverage over the trucks and the axle path is directed more into the board than a higher angle.

Deck flex also makes quite a difference to how your trucks perform.

A flexy deck will twist as you lean, reducing the input to your trucks. You need to run a softer bushing to compensate.

A stiff deck will transmit all of your movement straight into the trucks, so you need to run a slightly harder bushing to account for the higher response.

Match your weight and riding style using the chart below to find a starting point for your bushings.

– Cruising and Carving

Skater weight Durometer
50 – 100 lbs / 23-46kgs 65A-80A
75 – 125 lbs / 35-57kgs 80A-85A
100 – 145 lbs / 46-66 kgs 85A-88A
125 – 175 lbs / 57-80 kgs 87A-91A
145 – 195 lbs / 66-89 kgs 88A-94A
175 – 220+ lbs / 80-100+ kgs 91A-97A

– Freeride – a bit faster

Skater weight Durometer
50 – 100 lbs / 23-46kgs 68A-80A
75 – 125 lbs / 35-57kgs 80A-85A
100 – 145 lbs / 46-66 kgs 84A-88A
125 – 175 lbs / 57-80 kgs 86A-92A
145 – 195 lbs / 66-89 kgs 90A-95A
175 – 220+ lbs / 80-100+ kgs 93A-98A

– Downhill – really fast!

Skater weight Durometer
50 – 100 lbs / 23-46kgs 68A-80A
75 – 125 lbs / 35-57kgs 80A-85A
100 – 145 lbs / 46-66 kgs 85A-88A
125 – 175 lbs / 57-80 kgs 88A-93A
145 – 195 lbs / 66-89 kgs 90A-96A
175 – 220+ lbs / 80-100+ kgs 94A-100A

 

 

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Washers

Understanding what washers do is the hidden magic in setting your trucks up right!

By selecting a different washer, you can radically change the way your bushing performs, and therefore your truck.

Often overlooked, it’s no exaggeration to say that washers are at least as important as bushings. Pay attention to them!

You must always use a washer between your top (roadside) bushing and axle nut to stop the axle nut eating away at your bushing.

Washers give the bushing a foundation to push against.

A thicker washer will flex less and give more return-to-centre, and a more solid feeling.

– Cup Washers

A “Cup” washer caps the end of your bushings.

This does a lot of things. Firstly, it increases the resistance right at the very end of the turn. This means that you will get all the lean and turn that a bushing gives, right up to the end of the turn when it will suddenly become a lot harder to turn.

For this reason, they are great at preventing wheelbite whilst still keeping your trucks nice and turny. If you’re aiming for a “flop and stop” setup – you need cup washers.

A cup washer also makes the truck return to centre a lot stronger, but keeping the bushing in place and providing a solid foundation for the urethane to push off.

Think of a cup washer as a multiplier for your bushing’s rebound. A cup washer will make your trucks feel more “bouncy” and alive at the start of the turn.

It’s very important to choose a cup washer that properly captures your bushing. To work properly, you need the bushing to fit nice and snug into the washer.

– Flat Washers

A flat washer is a regular old washer.

Flat washers are basically the same as using no washer at all!

Using flat washers rather than cup washers allows the bushing to move around freely as the truck is leant over.

This reduces the “return to centre”, and allows the truck to lean over more.

It also means that the bushing offers a consistent amount of resistance as you lean the board over into a turn compared to a cup washer.

Flat washers will make a truck feel less “lively” and less “bouncy.”

The width of a flat washer also makes quite a difference.

A wider flat washer resctrict the bushing a little more, and provide a little better return to centre – though nothing like as much as a cup washer will.

A narrower flat washer will allow the bushing to be as free as possible, meaning maximum lean and less “bounce” in your trucks.

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Cup washers – better bushing capture for more return to centre

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Flat washers – maximum lean!

Preload – how much should I tighten my trucks?

Like all RKP trucks, Sabres perform best without too much preload on the bushings. In other words – don’t tighten your trucks up too much!

Over tightened kingpin nuts will result in destroyed bushings and pivot cups, stripped kingpins, altered geometry and a dull-feeling truck.

As a general rule, if you have more than two threads showing on your kingpin and you need to restrict the turn/lean more, you need to change your bushing/washer setup.

It is possible to add a little preload to your bushings by using a washer under the bottom bushing.

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Ride height

Most skaters are aiming to get their board as low as reasonably possible, without getting wheelbite, and without restricting the truck’s turn and lean too much.

You can play with your ride height to alter the feeling of your board very easily. A few mm makes a big difference!

A higher setup gives:

  • More “surfy” feeling with deeper turns
  • More grip
  • Snappier hookup
  • Easier to fit larger wheels
  • Can generally run trucks loose
  • Less stability at speed
  • Harder to push and footbrake

A lower ride height gives:

  • More stability at speed
  • Easier to push and footbrake
  • More predictable and controllable slide
  • Greater risk of wheelbite
  • Generally trucks need to be run tighter
  • Less grip and turning “feel”

You can increase your ride height with bigger wheels – although this increases the risk of wheelbite.

You can also increase your ride height by using risers, which reduces the risk of wheelbite.

So getting your ride height where you want it will involve picking the right combination of trucks, wheels, risers and deck.

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Should the front truck be looser than the back truck?

Generally we recommend either having both your trucks behaving the same, or setting your front truck up so that it turns more than you back truck.

Setting your front truck up tighter than you back truck will make your board skate like a forklift truck – it’ll steer from the back. This is a weird feeling that you might enjoy, but it can get very wobbly and it doesn’t actually turn that well.

Having both of your trucks the same creates a nice carving feel that you may be familiar with if you surf or snowboard.

It’s where we recommend you start if you’re new to this longboard lark, or if you’ve just got a new pair of trucks and want to get a feel for things before you start adjusting them too much.

You also want equal trucks if you skate switch a lot, or if you have a symmetrical board that gets skated in either direction.

Setting up your front truck looser than your back truck has a number of advantages.
Firstly, it reduces the likelihood of speed wobble.

Secondly, it makes your board steer like a car, which is way better for tracking corners and holding lines.

Thirdly, it makes your board hook up from slides a bit more easily, which is good for controlling speedchecks and predrifts.

You can do this with split angles as well as bushing and washer choice, but that’s a whole other kettle of fish…

How to stop truck squeak

Some trucks squeak every now and then.

This is almost always the pivot. DO NOT use grease, WD40 or any other lubricant to fix this – it may react with the urethane pivot cup!

Instead, try some soap shavings, candle wax or pencil graphite inside your pivot cup.

How to stop trucks clicking

A clicking truck is usually caused by the top washer moving around and striking the wide of the kingpin as the truck turns.

The best way to fix this is to find some washers that fit your kngpin threads perfectly.

However, this is not always possible – even though a kingpin is 3/8th UNC thread, the exact thread size will vary bolt to bolt, and most washers are designed to fit the shank of a bolt, not the threaded section.

You can reduce the problem slightly by roughing up the bottom of your kingpin but and the top of your washer on some griptape or sandpaper. This makes the kingpin nut and the washer grip each other better, and stops the washer sliding around so much.

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    See that gap between the washer and the kingpin? That’s your problem.

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How to stop wheelbite

Wheelbite is the enemy of every longboarder!

To stop wheelbite, you can either raise your ride height, use smaller wheels, or change your truck setup.

We’re going to assume that you don’t want to change your wheels or your ride height, and show you what can be done with your trucks.

You have four friends in your fight against wheelbite – tigher kingpin nuts, harder duro bushings, cup washers and cone bushings.

You can stop wheelbite by just tightening your trucks up. This is great becuase it’s free – but it also tops your trucks turning, which no-one wants.

Switching out to some harder duro bushings will work too – but they will also stop your trucks turning.

However, by using a cup washer, you can dramatically increase the amount of resistance that the truck offers as it gets to the end of its lean. Which is exactly the moment that you’ll usually get wheelbite.

So if you’re lucky, just by using a cup washer, you can stop wheelbite and keep your trucks nice and turny.

The final, and possibly best solution is to use a cone bushing, combined with a cup washer, as the top/roadside bushing.

A cone bushing is very loose and offers no resistance – unless it’s right at the very end of its turn, and you’r using a cup washer. In this situation, because there is so little urethane compared to a barrel or kingcone, the bushing gets to a point where it just cannot turn any further – it just runs out of urethane to compress.

It’s a common misconception that a double barrel setup will be less prone to wheelbite than a barrel/cone combo – actually the opposite is true if cup washers are used, but the cone bushing will detract from the truck’s stability and give more turn than the barrel.

Truck Slop – what is it and how do I stop it?

Truck “slop” is the truck moving across its pivot axis as it’s leant over.

This is not always a bad thing. A sloppy truck is very responsive and can work well on a super-loose setup.

However, the moment you start to go above running speed, you will want to reduce slop as much as possible.

A sloppy truck tracks badly and responds to your input in unexpected ways. For freeride and downhill, this is the opposite of what you want!

Assuming that you already have some decent trucks, reducing slop can be done in two ways – new pivot cups or cup washers.

Pivot cups do wear out. It might be that your trucks just need new pivot cups, or perhaps they came with a loose fitted pivot cup in the first place. Switching them out for new ones might help you.

Cup washers can help reduce slop. By stopping the bushings from moving around too much on the baseplate, you will reduce the slop a little.

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Set up your trucks for:

– Maximum Turn and Lean

Choose some softer duro cone bushings, top and bottom, and use flat washers.

You will have little return to centre, but the board will lean and turn as much as possible! Watch out for wheelbite.

– Maximum Turn without wheelbite

Choose soft or medium cone bushings, or perhaps a softer barrel on the bottom. Use Cup Washers top and bottom.

You trucks will have a stronger return to centre, and as the board gets to maximum lean, the cup washers should kick in and stop the truck going to wheelbite.

You might need to muck about with your durometer choice a bit to get maximum lean without wheelbite – if you get it right it’ll be perfect for your weight, and a heavier skater standing on your board will get wheelbite even though you don’t.

– Carving and Cruising

Use a barrel on the bottom, and a cone on the top.

Medium durometer is fine for the top and the bottom.

Cup washers are prefeable, as they prevent wheelbite and help the truck return to centre for a nice bouncy, responsive ride. A strong return to centre with a higher rebound will emulate the same carving feeling that you get when snowboarding or surfing.

– Faster Freeride

You can use barrels top and bottom for going a bit faster for more stability.

Choose a medium or slightly harder durometer depending on your speed.

If you prefer a more “divey” truck, with less return to centre, then we’d recommend a mid duro kingcone or a barrel on the bottom with no washer. A flat washer on the top will also deaden out the truck a bit and help get more lean.

If you’re on a topmount, then you’ll probably want to watch out for wheelbite. We would recommend a mid or slightly harder duro barrel on the bottom, and a medium duro barrel on the top with cup washers top and bottom.

This setup will give you a nice return to centre, and good lean without wheelbite.
For freeride, the amount of “bounce” in your trucks is very much a personal preference.
A dull feeling, leany truck (set up with flat washers and perhaps a kingcone) is a more predictable ride which some prefer. It possibly makes the board more controllable and reduces the chances of getting highsided.

However, a more lively truck with Cup Washers will feel nicer in the carve, and reduce the possibility of wheelbite.

It’s up to you which you prefer, but at least you now hopefully understand how to get the feeling you want!

– Race and Maximum Speed

As for freeride setups, there are two roads to go down here.

You can go for a duller, more predictable truck, which feels a bit dead but gives a more solid feeling truck at very high speeds.

Or you can go for a more lively truck, which has les chance of wheelbite, but might get a bit wild when going really fast.

For downhill we reocommend that you stay away from cones entirely, and stick to barrels and kingcones.

Harder duros than you would choose for slower skating are also where you need to be. Don’t tighten your trucks up too much!

A properly set up downhill board will feel pretty rubbish pushing around a carpark, but once you get up to speed, it’ll come alive.

Go with cup washers and harder barrels to get a better return to centre and more rebound from your trucks.

Go with flat washers and a barrel/kingcone combo for a duller, more solid feel.
A cup washer on the top bushing will help lock things in a bit – flat washers on the top for downhill are only for those who want almost no rebound at all from their trucks.
A kingcone on the bottom with a larger flat washer – preferably the same size as the kingcone – provides a solid base for the truck and can keep things feeling solid and confident.

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    Double cones and a flat washer on this Lush Samba makes it turn like crazy!

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    Jooz prefers his trucks stable with a bit of “jank” for freeride. Notice the flipped cup washer, the cheapest flat washer around!

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    Guinness World Record Holder Pete Connolly sets his Sabres up for maximum speed!

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    A large “Eliminator” style bushing on the bottom and a barrel with a thick cup washer on the top for extra stability.

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How to stop inline skate for INTERMEDIATE LEVEL

How to stop inline skate – INTERMEDIATE LEVEL

ADVANCED RUNOUTS:

Skating off pavement onto grass. You can weave from pavement to grass and back to pavement to control your speed, especially when going downhill. To stop completely just stay on the grass.

As you hit the grass, knees are kept bent, and one foot is ahead of the other. Nearly all weight is distributed on the foot that will hit the grass first, and you keep that leg real stiff, as if plowing a path for the trailing leg to follow. Very little weight is on the trailing leg. Muscles in the trailing leg are relaxed. The only function of the trailing leg is stability and balance. The leading leg does most of the work.

Beginners are often intimidated by this procedure, but it is really a very simple physical feat. The hard part, if any, is simply understanding mentally what it is you are trying to do, as I explained.

This is a lot of fun, too. I like to hit the grass full speed, and then skate as far down a slope as possible before the grass stops me.

One important requirement is that the ground should be dry. Wet dirt or grass will clog your wheels and your skates will also sink into mud (yuck).

 

(REGULAR) SPINOUTS/LUNGE STOP:

This is where you skate into a spin to transfer your linear momentum into angular momentum. To do this, you sort of stop-n-hold one skate at an angle to act as the pivot foot and the other traces a circle around it (and you). It may help to think of having each skate trace concentric circles, with the pivot skate tracing the much smaller inner one. The pivot skate will be turning on its outside edge, while the outer skate will be on its inside edge.

SPREAD EAGLE SPINOUTS:

A spinout with your skates in a bent spread eagle position (i.e., heels pointed towards each other, skates at slightly less than 180 degrees). There is no pivot foot here, instead both your skates trace the arc.

There are inside and outside spread eagles, where you skate on both inside or both outside edges. The above paragraph describes the inside spread eagle.

A sustained outside spread eagle is more of an artistic skating move than a practical stop, although I use it occasionally to stop on flat surfaces.

NOTE that all types of spinouts require a fair amount of room. Your forward motion is quite suddenly changed to angular motion so I’d recommend this mainly for low traffic areas where you won’t have people running into you from behind when you do the spinout.

 

CROSSOVER STOP:

This stop works both forwards and backwards at higher speeds. I call this the crossover stop because your feet are held in the position of a spread-out crossover. In this stop, you’re going to be arcing to one side. The harder and sharper you turn, the faster you stop. If you tend to trip on your skates, spread your skates farther apart (forwards-backwards).

The braking pressure comes from the turn. The harder you press with the outer edge of your back skate, the faster you stop. So if you’re turning left, your right skate is in front, the left skate is almost right behind it (so that all your wheels are in line). Press on the outer edge of your left skate (your back skate) and on the inner edge of your right skate.

There is also the inverted crossover stop where your feet positions are reversed: so you turn left with your left foot forward and right foot back (and vice versa for right turns). Watch ice hockey players just after play has stopped. More often than not, the circle around in the inverted crossover position.

Both crossover stops are good for high speed stops but make sure you have plenty of open space.

SLALOMING/PARALLEL TURNS:

For skiers, this maps over very nicely. This is more of a speed control technique rather than a stop, but it’s very useful to know. Explaining slalom turns can take an entire book in itself, so I will merely suggest that you find a skier or a ski book to show you how.

One way to practice this is to find a nice gentle slope with plenty of space at the bottom, set up cones in a line, and weave through the cones.

 

WIND-BRAKING:

Wind-braking is more for speed-control than outright stopping (although on windy days, wind-braking can stop you). Just stand up, spread your arms out and catch the air like a sail. You’ll probably need to lean forwards slightly, to counter the force of the wind.

Related:

How to stop inline skate – Beginner Level

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How to stop inline skate for beginners

How to stop inline skate – Beginner Level

The basic repretoire of stopping techniques includes the brake-pad, the T-stop, spinouts, and the power slide. This file should help you learn those basics and more. The basics should always be learned first, but once you progress beyond them, you’ll likely want to learn different and/or more advanced techniques. This compilation should help guide you through this progression.


BEGINNER LEVEL

Most beginner skaters should be able to handle the following set of stopping methods. These techniques keep both feet on the ground throughout the stop, and don’t require fully independent leg action.

 

RUNOUTS:

If the path you’re skating on has grass or packed dirt you can just skate off the path onto the grass/dirt. This will reduce your speed somewhat but watch out for the sudden change in speed! (hop-hop-hop-hop-hop). If you are truly out of control, at least you’ll tumble in the grass and not on the road.

WALL STOP:

To do this stop, simply skate towards a wall (or any reasonably stationary object, really) and use your arms to absorb the impact. At low speeds, this should be quite safe (make sure you turn your head to the side so as not to smash your face).You may or may not bang your skates, depending on your speed and how you hit. The key is to use your arms as cushioning springs (like doing a standing push-up.) One way to practice this is to stand a few feet from a wall (with your skates on). Now fall forward on your hands against the wall. You should be able to bounce slightly, while still avoiding banging your head. The faster your approach, the less bounce you can expect.

A variation on the wall stop is the billiard ball stop. Instead of stopping against an object, use a fellow skater to push off and transfer your momentum to them. To be safe, warn the receiving person about your approach. It works well on flat surfaces and at low to moderate speeds. It’s not recommended at high speeds and especially on people you don’t know 😎

See the collision section for more extreme cases.

THE BRAKE-PAD:

The brake-pad is subject to much debate amongst skaters. Many people with ice skating and rollerskating backgrounds find the brake in the way, in the wrong place, or simply ineffective. However, for those of you who actually take the time to learn it properly, the brake-pad becomes a very versatile piece of equipment. Here are some of the benefits:

  1. you can use it to stop, even at very high speeds
  2. it allows you to keep both skates on the ground while stopping (good for keeping your balance)
  3. you can maintain a narrow profile (good for high traffic areas where cars or bicycles might be passing you)
  4. you can still steer
  5. the sound of braking can often alert others to your presence
  6. the brake-pad is the most cost-effective technique there is so far for in-lines

To learn how to use the brake-pad, first coast with both skates shoulder-width apart. As you coast, scissor your feet back and forth a few times to get used to the weight shift. To apply the brake, scissor your skate so that your braking skate is out in front. Lift the toe of your brake skate and press with the heel too. Your body weight is centered and even slightly on your back skate when you’re just learning it. The key is a straight back and bent knees.

If you have trouble balancing or find your braking ankle a little weak, you can try the following trick: form a triangle with your legs (from the knee down to your skates) and the ground. This means putting your back knee either right behind or next to, the brake-foot knee to form that triangle.

Eventually you’ll want to be able to stop at high speeds. Basically, the more pressure you use on the brake pad the faster you stop. Maximum stopping power is achieved by putting your entire body weight onto the brake by lifting your back foot, and leaning onto the brake. Note that you will still need to have one wheel on the ground (the rear wheel of your brake skate). When you lean back on the brake, you’ll need that single wheel to be your pivot.

This takes some practice but is very effective. It is possible to stop within 15-20 ft even when going over 20 mph. You may still want to keep the other skate on the ground for balance, however.

Note that the amount of leverage (the amount of stopping power you have), is partially dependent on how worn your brake is. A half-worn brake will provide better leverage than either a new brake or a worn-out brake. Some people saw off part of the bottom of new brakes to avoid the annoying breaking-in period.

One important point to keep in mind when using the brake-pad: You can still steer while braking. Just keep the brake-pad on the ground and pivot on your heel wheel slightly to go the direction you want. This is very useful while going down a very narrow and curvy path or while trying to avoid curbs, pedestrians, parked cars, trees, and the like.

A brake-pad generally runs from $3 to $6 depending on what type you buy. Compare this with wheels which are $5.50 or more each and the freebie stops: runouts, wind-braking, billiard ball stop (freebies since you’re not wearing anything down). Wheels are expensive, and the freebie stops are infrequently available, if at all, for the large majority of skating situations. The brake should be your standard stop, provided that you learn it well. (see “Wile E. Coyote” stops for a rather interesting variation)

 

V-STOP/SNOWPLOW:

For a low-speed rolling stop, point your heels inward (for backwards) or your toes together (for forwards) and let your skates bang into each other. This might throw you in the direction you’re going (depending on your speed), so take care to be prepared to lean forward or backwards to compensate.
You can do a more exaggerated snowplow by spreading your legs out past shoulder-width and pointing your skates inward or outwards as before (and you won’t bang your skates together.) Here, use leg strength to press your inner edges against the ground, and you’ll slow down appreciably. This can work even at very high speeds.

Related:

How to stop inline skate for INTERMEDIATE LEVEL

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The War Inside: Book One in the Horizons Trilogy

The War Inside: Book One in the Horizons Trilogy

 

THE WAR INSIDE – “THE END OF THE WORLD IS ONLY JUST THE BEGINNING…”

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KindleCoverWebBuy The War Inside:

Kindle eBook Version @ Amazon.com – The War Inside (The Horizons Trilogy)

Print Version @ Amazon.com – The War Inside (The Horizons Trilogy) (Volume 1)

Check it out on Goodreads.com – HERE

Praise for The War Inside:

A-freaking-mazing. I love end-of-the-world, dystopian stories, and this one was spot on. [It is] easily as good as The Hunger Games, and I can’t wait to see the reception of this author and her future books, both for this series and any other she might dream up one day.” – My Book Addiction and More

“The War Inside is one of the most interesting and dare-I-say unique plots and world building that I’ve seen in quite some time.” – Patricia D. Eddy, Author-Alliance.com

“For fans of dystopian YA, The War Inside serves up an emotional punch not to be forgotten. I truly enjoyed it and eagerly await the second installment!” – Sasha Hibbs, author of Black Amaranth

“I have a weak spot for YA Dystopian, especially stories with new, interesting twists. The War Inside definitely fulfilled this wish and kept me hooked until the last page.” –Bookworm For Kids 

“The idea that the human race can lose touch with their empathy and love is an intriguing one.” – Portland Book Review

“An imaginative, brilliantly descriptive read!!! I loved it!!! Seriously!” – Simplistic Reviews

“Fans of YA Dystopian will definitely enjoy this unique and imaginative tale.” – Heather’s Book Chatter

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